Trailer Specs

Here’s that lengthy list I mentioned in my last post of things I want for my trailer, plus explanations.

Deck-between trailer: I’d rather have the few extra inches of headroom than the extra width a deck-over trailer would allow.

Added flanges for extra width: I still want the width if I can get it, and metal flanges can be added to the frame to extend the deck width. This does mean that the wheels wells will stick into the house a bit, but other tiny housers have just covered those with wood that matches the walls and they’re barely noticeable. I’m planning for at least 7’6″. The maximum road width is 8’6″ and they can actually make the flanges extend that far, but I’m worried about putting the whole frame of the house on the flanges.

22′ long (or maybe 22’6″): I started planning for 20′, but I wanted a little extra storage space downstairs – more on that later – so I added a few feet. Also, if I’m being superficial, 22 is one of my favourite numbers.

2 axles: The Tumbleweed 24′ trailer has three axles and it costs probably about $1000 for the extra axle, but hOMe is 28′ long and they only have two axles. So, I think that 2 axles will be just fine, and I like the look of two better.

No higher than 2′: I am strictly limited by the legal road height of 13’6″. I don’t want to be hitting power lines or bridges! Every inch underneath the trailer takes away from overhead space inside the house, so I don’t want the deck to be any higher than it has to be. I’ve read about drop axles, which give you a few inches, but I’m wary of them being able to support my house.

At least 10 000lbs GVW (that’s the weight rating for how much the trailer can hold, and includes the 2000 or so pounds that the trailer itself weighs, so the house would have to be 8000lbs or less): I’m considering asking for 14 000lbs GVW instead, just so I absolutely won’t have to worry about weight. Although it’s kind of scary thinking of how heavy this house might be.

Metal flashing underneath the trailer frame that seals it from water and road debris: This will be the underside of my floor. I’m thinking it will be galvanized steel flashing like Tumbleweed uses, but I have also seen aluminum flashing.

Electric brakes, a breakaway kit, brake lights, and signal lights: These are road requirements.

Crossmembers level with the outer frame: A lot of trailers have crossmembers that aren’t flush with the frame and then they add treated wood on top to make the deck, but I want the trailer to be like a stick built floor (except made out of metal) so I’ll be able to insulate right into it.

Crossmembers either 16′ on center or 24′ on center: Like I said, stick built floor. I’ll decide which one once I make/get more detailed construction plans.

A flat deck – no dovetail: A lot of the trailers I’ve been looking at are meant for cars or other vehicles, so the back of the trailer is slanted down to make it easier to get the vehicle onto the deck. The slant at the end is a dovetail. I need a level deck instead so my house will have a flat foundation.

Four leveling jacks, one welded onto each corner: It’s super important to make sure your trailer is level. Tumbleweed includes the welded on leveling jacks, so I thought I’d add them to my design as well.

8 all-threaded rods welded onto the trailer frame: Another Tumbleweed idea – they provide a way to secure the house to the trailer.

I think I covered everything. My goal is to be able to insulate as soon as I get the trailer. No adding anything, no creative problem solving because the trailer isn’t exactly what I need, and no hiring a welder.


2 Comments (+add yours?)

  1. Trackback: Trailer Musings and Dilemmas - The Fool's Path
  2. Trackback: Tiny House Trailers - The Fool's Path

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