I made a few little changes to my floor plan. My trailer is 23′, so I had to add 6″ to the house, which allowed me to add a litter box to my teeny tiny bathroom. Other changes are:
– illustrating the thinner walls
– switching the cork board and window in the main room so I can potentially have a wall heater beside the table, without a window right above it
– moving the ladder to be lined up with the edge of the loft, and because of that, adding 6″ to the utility closet so the ends of my kitchen line up
Here is my current floor plan (that will probably change again before I start the interior):
And since I’m posting about floor plans, I wanted to share my original floor plan. I finally got around to recreating it in black so it shows up on the scanner. I made this one two years ago, in April 2013:
I think it’s interesting how it evolved 🙂
Building projects always have delays and they always take longer than you expect. And I’m procrastinating. Right now I’m waiting to find out when exactly my trailer will be delivered. I’m also working on drawing up complete plans to get okayed by an engineer (which I meant to have done weeks ago). I started with the floor plan and got stuck on how thick to make the bathroom wall because of the sliding door.
After looking at different sliding door mechanisms, I settled on a normal 2×4 wall with a thin door. I’ll probably build the door myself because I would like to inset a full-length mirror into it. The door is also a specific size, and I can’t just trim a ready-made door because most are hollow. I don’t know what I’ll do about my front door because an exterior door for Canadian winters needs to be a little sturdier than what I think I can make. Hopefully I’ll be able to order a custom-size one without it being too expensive. Am I rambling yet?
Now I’m trying to make another heights drawing because I’ve changed my insulation and I also want to make the house a little less than the legal maximum of 13’6″, just to be on the safe side. I spent hours trying to figure out how venting a roof works when you have no attic and you’re using spray foam insulation, because I needed to know how thick to make the rafters. I also wanted to avoid this.
I came to the conclusion that you can’t really do an air gap with spray foam because it expands. When using spray foam in a cathedral ceiling it seems you don’t need ventilation anyways. Just make sure your roof doesn’t leak 😛 I’m minimizing any potential leak spots by having a simple roof line all the way across the house. As well, since spray foam makes the house airtight, I’m going to have an air-exchanger and that will help keep the humidity down.
After deciding on no air gap, I went back to the drawing and got stumped on how the rafter ties attach to my walls. I have two sets of plans and they both showed different ways. I researched that for a while, learned about spans, and decided on 4x4s (which I’d planned to use anyway). I learned that what I’ve been calling rafter ties aren’t actually rafter ties in my house because of my roof line. Rafter ties are at the bottom of rafters. In my house, the 4x4s that support my lofts are more like floor joists. The terminology is still all new to me.
The $200 plans I bought – specifically for the roof line – are like pages of math questions. There are blanks where there should be numbers! I don’t even know if I have enough numbers to fill in the rest. Why so mysterious, plans? The $10 plans I bought for the corner porch have way more measurements. Right now I have a piece of graph paper with two lines on it because I had to keep researching. Next I need to find the roof slope and maybe then I’ll be able to fill in some ceiling heights. Then after that I’ll finally be able to start on the framing plans I need to draw.